Icelandic Moss & Internet Memes: How to Protect Iceland’s Fragile Ecosystem

What do Internet memes and Icelandic moss have in common? More than you might think!

In September 2016, Canadian pop star Justin Bieber played two shows in Kópavogur, then shot a video for the song “Cold Water,” a collaboration with American electronic band Major Lazer and Danish musician MØ.

The video shows four dancers jumping and dancing on top of moss-covered boulders in Iceland’s Eldhraun lava field; it provoked widespread controversy in Iceland.

Landvernd, the Icelandic Environment Association, criticized the pop star and his team’s behavior. Snorri Baldursson, head of the association, told Vísir, “This is probably the worst treatment you can imagine for the moss, to jump on it. This type of moss that we have in the Eldhraun lava field is… one of the country’s most sensitive ecosystems.”

It is also strikingly beautiful. The video is gorgeous, and it’s one of a long list of popular films and music videos shot on location in Iceland. Shooting the music video reportedly took around four days and twenty people. The number of Iceland adventure tours it’s inspired? Countless.

A tourist wanders off the designated path to take photos in the moss.

Iceland’s moss and lichen, though, are both fragile essential ecosystems and cultural treasures.

Eldhraun is the largest lava field in Iceland. It formed between 1783 and 1784 when the Laki fissure and the adjoining Grímsvötn volcano erupted. It can be seen from Ring Road 1 before reaching the turning to Fjadrargljufur.

And that’s where Bieber’s Icelandic moss problems started.

“I’ll Show You” in Fjadrargljufur Canyon

The Environment Agency of Iceland closed all public paths to Fjadrargljufur Canyon in 2019 for all but five weeks out of the year after it became clear the fragile canyon was struggling under the strain of its popularity.

Fjadrargljufur Canyon

The primary reason cited for the closure was environmental damage caused by an ever-increasing number of visitors. Visitor numbers to the canyon increased from 150,000 to 282,000 between 2017 and 2018.

While Iceland has many gorgeous natural formations, Fjadrargljufur has become especially popular for multiple reasons:

Its tall, slender canyon walls are sheer, creating beautiful lighting and effects photographers love. Photos were going viral on social media.

The other reason Fjadrargljufur has become so popular? Another Justin Bieber music video,“I’ll Show You,” was filmed there in 2015.

Guðmundur Ingi Guðbrandsson, then Iceland’s Minister for the Environment and Natural Resources, confirmed to The Guardian it was “a bit too simplistic to blame the entire situation on Justin Bieber” but urged visitors, especially famous or otherwise influential ones, to consider the consequences of their actions.

“In Justin Bieber’s defense,” Guðbrandsson added, “the canyon did not—at the time he visited—have rope fences and designated paths to show what was allowed and what was not.”

The nature conservation areas Fjadrargljufur Canyon and Skógaheiði at Skógafoss reopened on June 1 with more infrastructure in place to guide visitors and protect the moss.

Skógaheiði at Skógafoss, Nat Hab Expedition Leader © Eddy Savage

Visit South Iceland shared that the Environment Agency of Iceland reopened the sites, requesting all guests to walk only on designed paths and not to step over fences or go into restricted areas with sensitive vegetation or wildlife. The reopening statement included:

“It has been difficult for our rangers to hold the areas closed, and sadly, many people ignore the closures. The areas are very damaged because of too much traffic, too much pressure on nature and a lack of infrastructure to protect the vegetation. Help us protect nature and follow the rules in the nature conservation areas.”

On Nat Hab’s Iceland & Greenland: A Nordic Discovery, you can enjoy an early hike up on the rim of Fjadrargljufur Canyon, a narrow, serpentine gorge contained by 328-foot-high vertical walls covered in bright green moss. Walking along the rim, you can look down into its shadowy depths where the twisting, silver Fjadra River flows and see exactly what drew Bieber to the area.

Icelandic turf sustainable houses

Sustainable Travel Infrastructure to Protect Iceland’s Spectacular Sensitive Ecosystems

Inga Hlin Palsdottir, director of the national tourism agency Visit Iceland, told CNN Travel that it’s not fair to blame overtourism—or music videos, or individual pop stars—for Fjadrargljufur’s closure:

“It’s just a natural wonder that wasn’t meant to be that popular. We need to build a better infrastructure there so we can invite people all year-round. We need paths that can be discovered all year-round. It’s not only because of nature; it’s a safety issue.”

Given Iceland’s spectacular landscapes, it’s a wonder more people haven’t always visited.

Iceland is a geologically young island on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge tectonic plate, which separates the Eurasian and the North American plates. This results in Iceland’s volcanic activity – and fantastic snorkeling and diving in the fissure between the tectonic plates at Silfra.

Large glaciers and gushing glacial rivers and waterfalls sculpt the country, bubbling geothermal pools and spouting geysers entertain visitors. Adding to the mixture there are vast fields of moss, black sand, lava fields, numerous waterfalls, lush wetlands, as well as birch forests and mineral rich springs.

The Icelandic government is committed to protect and secure sustainable use of these spectacular natural assets. Around 25% of the country is under protection in either national parks or protected areas, including Vatnajökull National Park, Surtsey and Thingvellir National park; both are UNESCO World Heritage sites.

Thingvellir National park

The Mývatn-Laxá area is a Ramsar wetland of international importance, home to one of the world’s richest populations of breeding aquatic birds. One hundred fifteen species of birds have been recorded in the area, including 28 species of ducks.

Many of Iceland’s natural wonders are only just being discovered – visitor numbers are expected to increase in the coming years.

Nat Hab spoke with Professor Brack Hale, academic director of the Master´s in Coastal and Marine Management at the University Center of the Westfjords in Ísafjörður. He shared a similar perspective on infrastructure development:

“When I first started coming to Iceland in 2010, there were somewhere around 500,000 visitors annually. In 2018, it was 2.2 million, which is a very rapid increase. We’ve nearly exceeded pre-COVID numbers now. And most official foreign visitor numbers do not include cruise ship passengers, which has grown exponentially.

Atlantic puffins nest in colonies on small islands covered in turf. They rely on healthy moss and grass to thrive. Nat Hab Expedition Leader © Anthony Amsel

The speed and scale of the increase in tourism means we do not have the infrastructure to support the number of visitors.

That’s true across the country. It’s what’s going on with the moss, too. The moss is extremely sensitive to people walking on it. A footprint might take 100 years to disappear.”

In early June 2024, Iceland’s population is 377,483 according to the World Population Review. After a dip during the pandemic, visitor numbers returned to 2.2 annually, entering through Keflavík airport alone; that number is expected to reach 2.5 million annual visitors through Iceland’s main airport in the next few years.

When well over six times the number of inhabitants visit an island country to witness its majestic scenery, natural phenomena like Icelandic geysers and hot springs, and its rich local culture, how do we do so responsibly? What’s important to know or do, especially around Iceland’s beautiful and widespread moss?

Discover Icelandic Moss: A Lichen Thriving in the Arctic

First of all, Icelandic moss (Cetraria islandica) is not actually moss but a lichen, which is a symbiotic relationship between fungus and algae. This lichen is characterized by its brown to grayish-white color and its upright, leaf-like thallus that can grow up to 2.75 inches tall. The branches are trough-shaped and fork into flattened lobes with fringed edges. Icelandic moss is found in the mountainous regions of northern countries, including the lava slopes and plains of Iceland, which is how it got its name.

The prevalence of the lichen we call Icelandic moss reflects various environmental factors, such as the climate and the repeated formation of new substrates, particularly lava fields.

In the harsh climates of Iceland, this lichen thrives by clinging to rocks and soil, absorbing moisture and nutrients directly through its surface. It reproduces both sexually, through the formation of spores that are dispersed by the wind, and asexually, by fragmentation, where a piece of the lichen breaks off and grows into a new organism.

Remarkably resilient, Icelandic moss can endure long periods of dryness, rehydrating rapidly with the return of moisture. Its growth is extremely slow, reflecting the challenging conditions it endures.

When the moss is crushed or torn, it loses its ability to photosynthesize efficiently, which is critical for its survival and growth. Additionally, the structure of the moss is delicate, and the pressure from footsteps can compress the soil, reducing aeration and making it harder for the moss to re-establish itself.

Öxarárfoss Waterfall in Thingvellier National Park

Iceland’s Green Mantle: How Moss Shapes the Land of Fire and Ice

Icelandic moss contributes to the ecosystem in several ways:

• Soil Formation and Stability: It helps in the formation of soil from volcanic rock and stabilizes the soil, preventing erosion.
• Water Retention: Mosses retain water and humidity, which is crucial in the harsh Icelandic environment.
• Biodiversity Support: They provide habitat for a variety of microorganisms and invertebrates.
• Food Source: It serves as an important food source for grazing animals like reindeer and caribou.
• Carbon Sequestration: By absorbing carbon dioxide during photosynthesis, mosses help reduce atmospheric CO2 levels.
• Nutrient Cycling: They play a role in nutrient cycling by breaking down organic material and returning nutrients to the soil.
• Indicator Species: Mosses can indicate the health of an ecosystem, as they are sensitive to environmental changes.
• Climate Regulation: Through their water retention and carbon sequestration abilities, mosses contribute to climate regulation.

These contributions are essential for maintaining the delicate balance of Iceland’s ecosystems, and they underscore the importance of preserving these unique organisms. Visitors should be mindful of the moss’s role and ensure their activities do not disrupt this balance.

© Andrew Ackerman

Watch Where You Walk: How to Preserve Iceland’s Mossy Terrain

How will we preserve and respect the fragile wetland, woodland and mossy ecosystems of Iceland? Specific guidelines for hiking near Icelandic moss to ensure its protection on your Iceland Nature Adventure:

• Stay on Designated Paths: Always hike on marked trails to avoid damaging the moss, which is very fragile and slow to recover.
• Do Not Touch or Walk on the Moss: Moss is incredibly sensitive and can be easily damaged by human touch. Look and take photos, but do not touch.
• Respect Closures: Adhere to any specific rules or closures in the area you are hiking. These are in place to protect the moss and other natural features. Areas may be temporarily closed to restore the natural landscape.
• Educate Yourself: Before hiking, learn about the local ecosystem, conservation measures and land management practices to better understand, appreciate and help preserve it.
• Leave No Trace: Practice Leave No Trace principles to minimize your impact on the environment.
• Make Sure You’re Properly Equipped, Professor Hale added:

“In some parts of Iceland, you can’t expect any services, and the weather can change very quickly. It could be a sunny day and feel like it’s 55°F degrees outside, then all of a sudden, it’s snowing, and you can’t see anything. Be prepared for all conditions. Assume you need a backpack with layers and food and water.”

By following these guidelines, hikers can enjoy Iceland’s stunning landscapes while also contributing to the conservation of its delicate and crucial uniquely mossy ecosystems and culture.

The Icelandic Institute for Natural History compiles Red Lists for species threatened or at risk of extinction.  Those lists include 67 species of lichen, 74 moss species, and 56 vascular plants. Assessment of lichens on the Red List has not been revised since 1996, as data on the distribution of most species is lacking. Icelandic authorities note that it is forbidden to break offshoots, leaves, flowers, or roots of these protected species, to step on them, to dig them up, or to otherwise compromise these plants.

Efforts to protect Icelandic moss are crucial, not only for the preservation of natural ecosystems but also for the cultural and economic value they represent. Education on the importance of this lichen and the establishment of guidelines for responsible tourism are key to ensuring that Icelandic moss continues to thrive for generations to come.

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